Friendly, familiar, and not too far, Chicago has long been a top dining-destination for Cleveland-area foodies, who have flocked to such bar-raising establishments as Charlie Trotter’s, Trio, and most recently, Alinea, where young uber-chef Grant Achatz has mastered the art of molecular gastronomy.
So when last year’s tale of Achatz’ Stage IV tongue cancer became public, plenty of Cleveland food fans took the news personally. ...
Happily, Achatz’ Cleveland colleague, Michael Symon, told me in March that the chef had completed a grueling course of chemo and radiation and was doing well. Then yesterday, I came across this article in The New Yorker.
In "A Man of Taste," writer D. T. Max does a top-notch job of reporting on Achatz’ current condition (good, but guarded), providing a highly readable rundown on everything from the chef’s originally botched diagnosis to the science of taste. Along the way, he coaxes out the details of Achatz’ frustrations, inspirations, and coping mechanisms, as well as the toll the medical ordeal has taken on the chef’s abilities – making it a compelling read for both Alinea fans, and anyone interested in culinary craftsmanship at its highest levels. – Elaine T. Cicora
Read Elaine Cicora's restaurant reviews, food news, and comprehensive dining guide on the restaurant page at
clevescene.com.
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